TIKTOK & THE TABI: THE HIGHS & LOWS OF COUNTER-CULTURE

An icon of minimalism. Rebellious and anti-fashion. The Margiela Tabi has long been reserved for a specific audience in an attempt to distance themselves from the unremarkable and conventional. Yet, as TikTok continues to democratise the fashion industry, it begs the question, are Tabi’s losing its insider allure?

“Historical. Whimsical. Craft” says Content Creative and Fashion Forecaster, Lola Webster, when asked to describe the Tabi in 3 words. A silhouette that traces its lineage as far back as 15th century Japan with humble beginnings, the shape began as a sock, intended for the Japanese worker. A design thought to promote balance through separating the big toe, away from a holistic reflexology strategy, it is also considered to connect one to their inner sense of self. It wasn’t until around 1900 a rubber sole was added for outdoor activities in a model that continues to be worn by workers today.

In the Summer of 1989, Margiela debuted the Tabi silhouette in his inaugural collection. Drenching models footwear in red paint, behind they stamped hoofed prints into a white catwalk.

“I thought the audience should notice the new footwear. And what would be more evident than its footprint?”

Since then, the shoe has amassed a cult following, making strangers into friends simply on a choice of footwear. But as these fashion cool kids have overthrown TikTok in recent years, a new audience has been exposed to the feeling of being ‘in the know’. “It’s gone from being a cult trend to being cute. Tabis were never seen as "pretty" but now they have a coquette edge to them” says Frankie Girling, model and womenswear designer.

Post COVID, the market has had an undisputed shift in the way people are engaging with content and buying online. TikTok specifically  has ruptured traditional marketing methods and placed the power into the hands of Millennials and Gen Z. With over 1.2 billion users (70% being Gen Z, according to the video platform) this global community allows a variety of people to be inspired by online creators, who have the ability to develop and drive new consumer habits. By making fashion relatable, the days of ‘gatekeeping’ seem to be coming to an end, making every space seem accessible.

These are details businesses cannot afford to ignore, especially with TikTok now boasting higher engagement rates than both Instagram and Youtube. In a recent survey targeted at British 16 - 60 year olds, 75% identified TikTok as their video platform of choice. 75% stated TikTok had influenced them into purchasing a product, with a further 67% highlighting how they trusted the platform to give honest reviews on purchasing brand new items. 58% said TikTok had influenced them into buying a product they never thought they would have needed.

“We are all exposed to so many different ‘streams’ of thought all day everyday online, we curate our identities based on tapping into different subcultures as and when we want to” Where there was one overarching voice that dictated the main trends, “it’s more like a constant buzz of different channels and opinions that we tend to pick and choose to absorb because they resonate with us” says Webster.

To date, the #tabi hashtag has amassed a huge 374.2 million views, with a series of creators bouncing off the heavy criticism nicknamed, ‘hoofcore’. “Nextlevellexus propelled the shoe to its popularity among younger consumers. It managed to have that perfect viral combination of storytelling, humour and relatability. These are those key factors for success and this really ensured that sales even on second-hand platforms like Depop grew exponentially.” Says Lifestyle Journalist and Trend Forecaster, Disha Daswaney.

It’s down to creators such as Berlin based, 032c fashion editor, Brenda Weischer, who has formed a loyal Tabi worshipping community throughout the last decade under platforms @brendahashtag and @disruptiveberlin. Documenting the most sought after archival finds, to fit within her carefully curated, completely monochrome wardrobe, Weischer’s unique following share an honest appreciation of the Tabi, that has separated them from #cleangirl and #quietluxury algorithms.

Yet, what happens when counter culture becomes appealing to the majority?

“The design is beautiful but this desire for avant-garde looking fashion and things that are a bit more futuristic is something that is being propelled into the mainstream with certain products as well as designers that are gaining popularity” says Daswaney. “If anything hits virality on TikTok and is able to attract a new audience it definitely makes it mainstream to an extent.”

Yet not all are under the same opinion, “I generally feel like the concept of ‘mainstream’ doesn’t really exist any more.” says Webster. “I think they have become ‘mainstream’ within certain circles but still completely alien to some. I wouldn’t however class it ever really as a mainstream style, because the whole point of it I think (at least in a contemporary context - since Margiela co-opted the style) is to be disruptive, striking and controversial.”

Their uncanny appeal provoke authentic emotion, leaving you either a lover or a hater. “I don’t think they are losing their allure, I think the audience of people who actually wear the style is relatively small in society. In fashion-minded circles it is definitely having a moment, but also being worn in many different ways and as part of different micro subcultures, so to me, it still feels like a fresh and exciting thing. I think it’s a timeless style, but timelessly ‘anti fashion’ as you mention, so I think it will always be slightly controversial.” Says Webster.

TikTok has created an opening to those historically precious and heavily protected spaces in fashion, but ultimately this continued division acknowledges the fact The Tabi will never be a shoe for everybody, and individuality will never be mainstream.