NICHOLAS DALEY, A NEW MOVEMENT FOR BRITISH MENSWEAR
Amongst a number of collaborations, nominations, exhibition commissions and a Southbank takeover, it’s fair to say Daley is currently an unstoppable force in contemporary British menswear, using fashion as his vehicle to explore Black British and diasporic identity.
Studios have recently moved to a new space in Tottenham - one of London’s most culturally rich communities. Throughout his collections and projects, Daley holds the ability to connect to real people and their stories beyond the materialism of fashion, intertwining personal narratives from his mixed Jamaican and Scottish heritage. This October, in commemoration of Black History Month, Daley joined forces with Chelsea FC to create the limited collection ‘Tied Together’ celebrating Paul Canoville, Chelsea’s first black player. Taking inspiration from the 83/84 season kit Canoville would have worn, tartan prints referencing Daley’s Scottish heritage were infused with Chelsea blues, detailing a bespoke Terrace Tracksuit jacket and scarf.
Only a few weeks prior, Daley showcased his latest commission for The Missing Thread exhibition, open to the public now at Somerset House. Celebrating the vast contribution of Black British creatives over several decades, “Knitted Roots” is an immersive installation space recognising the powerful combination of music, fashion and textiles over his own design process. Experimenting with intricate hand knits, commemorating generations of traditions, an intimate listening space paired with a curated playlist created a place of reflection in memory of the late Joe Casely- Hayford, whom the exhibition tributes.
It was Daley’s parents who championed Black British sounds throughout the 70’s & 80’s across Scotland and the Midlands, running a series of club nights entitled, The Reggae Klub (a reference he continues to use through each collection) specialising in UK roots reggae. Hosting live music, talks and art, Woven Rhythms was a testimony to his journey so far, also acting as a contribution to London Fashion Week, which began that same day.
Ska, two-tone and the cultural contributions of the Midlands’ Afro-Caribbean take centre stage for Roots to Rebel, Daley’s Autumn Winter 23 collection. A focus on fine fabrics and craftsmanship as usual leads the narrative, revisiting roots partnering with Lochcarron of Scotland for a brushed mohair tartan. The Reggae Klub tee ode’s to Daley’s parents who designed the graphic in 1978 as an emblem to their legendary grassroots club nights.
Nicholas Daley represents the new wave of Black British designers dominating the scene, from the likes of Wales Bonner to Bianca Saunders, Martine Rose to Alhuwalia, there’s a clear pride in embracing the melting pot British culture is and at long last coming to appreciate. With a 2023 New Established Menswear nomination, there’s pleasure in knowing Daley is receiving the recognition he rightly deserves, prioritising the important stories that have been long left out of the spotlight.